Celli Bron & Ruseval Sangiovese-Cabernet 2010
One of my biggest gripes with the Chairman’s Selection program is that when I find a wine to love, the odds I’ll see the next vintage of that same wine in PA are miniscule. This is, I suppose, the problem with relying on the power of bulk and opportunistic buying.
That said, it does seem recently that certain producers show up repeatedly in the program, even if the wines themselves differ. Celli, a producer from the oft-overlooked Italian region of Emilia-Romagna, is one of those producers. Last year, I absolutely loved their Le Grillaie Riserva Sangiovese di Romagna (we’ll call it SdR for short), a Chairman’s Selection that was rustic and earthy, but featured bright fruit and excellent balance, so when I saw another wine from Celli enter the program – this time, the Bron & Ruseval Sangiovese-Cabernet ($19.99) – I of course jumped right on it.
In contrast to the SdR, which was 100% Sangiovese, the Bron e Ruseval is a 60/40 mix of Sangiovese and Cabernet, or Celli’s version of a SuperTuscan. (SuperRomagnan?) As such, it’s more modern in style, with a velvety and luxurious mouthfeel, as well as hints of dark fruit, vanilla and spice. Still, the Sangiovese has room to shine, offering herbal notes, leather and red cherries. It’s quite nice to see a wine live up to its promised double billing – unlike so many SuperTuscans that are dominated by the “global” varieties.
At nearly $20, this wine isn’t the everyday bargain the SdR was, but it is a serious wine worthy of serious cuisine (a well-made Bolognese would work, as would a big hunk of beef) that suggests serious aging potential. I’ll certainly be picking up a few more bottles for my cellar.